Bunny Basics!

Hey there, guys!

Welcome to my first EVER blog!

My name’s Cat and I spend most of my waking hours as a Licensed Veterinary Technician. I try my best to heal injured animals and prevent them from being ill in the first place. So, here I am! Hemostats by day, keyboard by night!

My primary focus for the past 15 years has been on the exotic companion pets. There’s a lot of win/win when it comes to reading my blog. What you will get out of following me on my journey:

Things to know BEFORE you buy or adopt. -Learn how to SAVE money on what you ACTUALLY need. -SAVE money on your vet bill. -REDUCE the need to go to the vet. -What to expect when you take your new pet home.

Over the years, my job has been emotionally, physically, and mentally toiling. Watching a 10 g bearded dragon come in with metabolic bone disease and having to euthanize it because its bones were broken. To put that in perspective, a 10 g bearded dragon is probably no more than a month old and the size of your pinky finger. If it made it to adulthood, it would have been the size of your forearm. The owners were given the wrong information on how to care for it from the start. Or having a new owner come in with their unresponsive rabbit because they were not warned about how sensitive a rabbit’s stomach and diet are. I’m here to prepare owners, to get you and your pet on track, and in turn save time, money, and heartache. I will try to make a living by spreading the word about exotic companion animal care, so I will attach affiliated links throughout my blog about products you can TRUST. Let’s do this RIGHT!

Let’s hop around the topic of rabbits! About 7 million rabbits are owned by US residents. That’s almost equivalent to the amount of people who reside in the entire state of Virginia. It does not help that rabbits are induced ovulators, meaning ovulation is stimulated by breeding, and that their gestation period is only 1 month where they can produce up to 14 kits (babies)! *Deep breath* Yikes! From my experience, I’d say close to 90% of pet owners are given the incorrect sex when adopting a rabbit. So much so that I’ve developed a skill out of turning masculine names to feminine and vice versa. Frank is now Francesca everyone!!! So…this is just one reason why finding a reputable exotic animal veterinarian is crucial. We all know that owning an animal is a responsibility, right? Righttt? I’m here to help you save money, but responsible pet ownership is step one in keeping your wallet happy. The BEST way to save money is to rip off the band-aid and schedule a New Pet Exam with your vet. Please try to find a veterinarian with a lot of exotic animal experience. I cannot tell you the number of times I’ve had to treat exotics that were given the wrong medications or treatments because cat and dog techniques and methods were used. Ideally, you want to schedule a consultation with your vet before you get your pet. This way you are ready and know what to expect. Your vet should tell you everything you need to know: 1. The benefits of spay and neuter. 2. Proper caging requirements including bedding, size, location, and structure. 3. Proper diet including quantity, age restrictions, type, and frequency. 4. Parasite protection and disease preventative. 5. Socializing and training tips. Great! No surprises! Not only will you save money, but you will also keep your pet healthier longer. You may be able to catch illnesses before they become serious or prevent them all together!

An animal’s first exam can be the most important! Why? He/She looks great! One of the craziest things about exotics is… Most of them are prey species! This means they are excellent at hiding illnesses because in the wild, they would get picked on or eaten. x Parasites often do not cause noticeable changes in stool, i.e., diarrhea. x A runny nose on an obligate nasal breather (such as rabbits) is never normal. Not only can it possibly obstruct the airway, but it usually indicates that there’s an underlying illness that most often gets worse. We’ll touch on that soon. x Rabbits don’t naturally enjoy being held in the ways we need them to be for their exams. They break bones just by kicking the air! During your bun’s first exam, the team will show you how to properly hold them for nail trims and at home care. This reduces stress in adulthood. x The wrong diet can be fatal in as little as 12 hours. It sounds dramatic, but it’s true. Many rabbit owners don’t realize that a little diarrhea or inappetence is NEVER ok. x Something as little as proper bedding can go a long way. Rabbits are notorious for getting sores on their feet and hocks which most often become inflamed and can introduce bacteria into their bloodstream and joints. Annnnnd the wrong type of flooring usually causes “splay leg”. x Over 25% of rabbits come with diseases from previous homes or litters and are asymptomatic until they are older or immune compromised. Pet owners that do not know may wish they did because their rabbits could have been put on immune support or pulse therapy earlier on in life. x Foreign bodies, oh foreign bodies. Oh, and electrical shocks! Most of my experience in rabbit emergency care is due to rabbits ingesting fabric, chewing electrical wires, or suffering from a trichobezoar (hairball)! Learn how to rabbit proof your home and be sure to gently groom them daily! Yes, they shed A LOT spending on breed. We’ll get to that later. x Their teeth keep growing! They can actually grow sharp points called spurs that can become uncomfortable and trap the tongue, making it more difficult to eat. Some can even grow through the skull or develop abscesses. Depending on your bun’s genetics or health status, some are more influenced by these issues than others.

So, there’s obviously a lot of overwhelming information that can be learned by making a consultation appointment with your veterinarian. Veterinary appointments should continue throughout your bun’s life at least once to twice a year. But don’t worry. By the time you finish reading my blogs, you will feel so much better!

For now, we will talk about the basics of rabbit care. My next blog will be more about the medical side of things- how to properly restrain and what illnesses to look out for and how to prevent them. The Bunny Basics! Housing: Rabbits not only enjoy exploring, but it is actually healthy for them. Staying active has its typical benefits, such as weight loss, building muscle, and heart health. But it also helps keep their gut active. An increase in adrenaline stimulates intestinal tract motility. Since they are notorious for hairballs, sometimes no matter how hard we try, staying active will help things move along. Exploring new things also improves mental health. Yes! Simple enrichment goes a long way, but we’ll cover that soon. Habitat Size: Many sources will say that a cage should at least have 2ft x 2ft x 3 ft dimensions. This is NOT recommended. To ensure that there is enough room for exercise and mental stimulation, the enclosure should be the size of a bedroom or living room. Please make sure that your room is also "bunny-proofed". This means that the room is free of easily accessible wires and other materials that your rabbit may chew on- and YES they will try it if it's in reach.

If your rabbit is outdoors, the area should be fenced-in with a cover so that no animals can get in or get out. Rabbits overheat easily, so the area you choose should be temperature regulated. Keep in mind that keeping your rabbit outdoors can make this difficult and expose them to various diseases, parasites, toxicants, and predators. The outdoors is great when you are able to monitor your pet and survey the property for dangers first. Make sure you have a hut or shelter with proper bedding and that the land has not been treated with pesticides or contains toxic plants.

Common toxic plants are:

x Nightshade x Hydrangea x Chrysanthemum x Lilies x Cannabis (Marijuana) x Onion x Poppy x Hemlock x Rhododendron x Tomato plants x Iris x Daffodil x Ivy x Hyacinth x Rhubarb x Foxglove x Buttercup x Yew x Wolfsbane x Black Locust x European White Bryony x Buckeye x Castor Bean x Chinese-lantern x Common buckthorn x Daphne x Dieffenbachia x Dyer’s Greenweed x Elephant’s ear (colocasia esculenta)

*Keeping your pet outdoors means that you must be more vigilant about maintaining monthly parasite prevention and proper caging maintenance to prevent predator encounters.

If you don't have a room available, here's an enclosure that I recommend:

You can customize the area to suit your bun! Just make sure to add a secure cover to keep your bunny in and any unwelcomed guests (like cats and dogs) out.

Bedding: In order to prevent pododermatitis of the feet and hocks and splay leg, I recommend using fleece blankets and Carefresh bedding. Make sure your rabbit doesn’t try to eat the blanket. Splay leg is a musculoskeletal condition that develops when your rabbit isn’t able to keep their legs in a natural, neutral position, usually due to slick floors. They will permanently have their legs to the slides, making it more difficult to ambulate.

Here is a link to the Carefresh bedding. Benefits: Soft, absorbent, and easy to clean. You can also use this in their litter box. I do not recommend cat litter or pine shavings- these cause respiratory irritation. And it comes in pretty colors!

Diet: Oh, this is SO important for buns. In my experience, over 90% of veterinary cases are gastrointestinal tract related. We all grew up seeing Bugs Bunny snacking on his carrot. I see patients snacking on whole carrots and greens all the time! The key to rabbit health is portion size and type of food. You can feed your rabbit a primarily green diet, but you want to avoid certain greens that are high in calcium. These can cause bladder stones. You also need to make sure the diet is balanced so that your rabbit is getting enough vitamins and minerals! This is why I suggest a mixed diet of pellets, greens, and hay. This removes the constant worry of if you are feeding too much or too little. When using this regime, in combination with following other care guidelines, your rabbit should be on track. Of course, certain life stages and health conditions can influence the way your rabbit develops. Another reason why semiannual to annual vet visits are so important!

What I recommend: Pellets: Oxbow Young Rabbit Formula for rabbits under 9 months of age. Feed ad lib until rabbit is over 9 months old. Then, convert to Oxbow Adult Rabbit Formula. Now you will feed measured amounts as directed on the bag twice daily.

Young:

Adult:

Hay: Hay is needed all the time. They should never run out. This helps gastrointestinal motility and to keep their teeth in healthier condition. For rabbits under 9 months of age or ones that are nursing or healing, you should be feeding Alfalfa hay which is richer in protein and calcium. Timothy can also be fed at this age, but alfalfa is essential.

Alfalfa Hay:

For healthy rabbits over 9 months of age, you should only be feeing Timothy based hays. Oxbow offers a variety of crunchy, sweet, or coarse flavors!

Greens: These should be fed in moderation. A good rule of thumb I follow is to feed a fist full, or the size of your rabbit’s head, of greens once- twice daily. If you notice diarrhea, STOP and let your veterinarian know. Make sure to RINSE your greens first. Yes, these are wild animals, but we’re here to help prevent issues they would have had to face if you weren’t here to help them. Because you are the BEST bunny parent around!! Greens to avoid or feed sparingly are broccoli, spinach, and kale. These are so high in calcium that they can cause bladder stones! I have so many pictures of the stones I’ve helped remove from bladder stone surgeries-yikes! The worst part is that bunnies LOVE kale, so don’t let them fool you 😉 Water Source: Statistically, rabbits benefit more from drinking from a water bowl than a bottle. Bottles are difficult to clean and often get stuck. I’ve seen dehydrated animals that have had a full bottle of water but were unable to drink and therefore became sick; some have even passed from the dehydration. Using a bowl is more natural and provides more when drinking. Bowls do require daily cleaning, but it’s worth the added health benefits. Another thing to consider is the type of water. Since rabbits are so sensitive to calcium and susceptible to bladder stones, it is a great idea to use Spring or Purified water rather than faucet water. I recommend the non-flip bowls or heavy ceramic found here: With rubber ring removed to prevent chewing:

These products are SO affordable on Amazon- LOVE it! Snacks Contrary to popular belief, rabbits are only supposed to get slivers, only a few shavings, of carrot offered. This can be given once each day or every other day. Other treats that can be offered, in moderation, are:

- Apples (no seeds) - Bananas - Pears (no seeds) - Peaches and Nectarines (remove the pit)

- Mango - Berries - Pineapple (remove the peel) - Melons (can include the seeds) - Apricots (remove the pit) - Cranberries - Grapes (or raisins) - Carrots - Edible flowers (just use the petals - Rose, Nasturtium, daisy, Carnation, Geranium, Hollyhock, Pansies, Sunflowers, Violets)

Reminder: ONLY feed a couple pieces every other day. If you see diarrhea, STOP. Fruits are high in sugar and should NOT be fed as a majority of the diet.

Grooming

Oh, man. Start grooming now to avoid unexpected trips to the vet later. Hairballs can be scary!

Oh, and rabbits cannot vomit; so, vomiting the hairball like our felid friends is not an option. Ugh. Can’t be easy! I recommend grooming your pet rabbit daily, maybe while you are watching TV. Rabbit skin is very fragile, so gently grabbing the loose hair and rolling your fist against the body and away usually helps remove those loose hairs. Here are a couple grooming brushes I recommend:

I’ve never tried these, but with how much rabbits shed, I would be interested in giving it a go!

I do NOT recommend trimming your own rabbit’s fur or mats unless you are experienced. Their skin is so fragile that it can cut and tear like butter. If they are not used to the restraint, they can also break their leg bones or back trying to get away. Some veterinary facilities offer grooming if needed but may also recommend local groomers. Something to think about before deciding on a longhaired or shorthaired rabbit! A complete grooming can cost similar to a dog, but possibly more because sometimes sedation is required to get into those more sensitive areas and an up-to-date exam is needed for sedation! But your pet already has an updated exam, right? 😉 They better!

That’s all for bunny basics! Stay tuned for more on parasite prevention, veterinary care, and enrichment!